women shaping the future of cool-climate wines

Across the world’s emerging cool-climate wine regions, a new generation of winemakers is redefining what wine can be. In places where vineyards were once considered unlikely—from the Nordic countryside to the rolling hills of the United Kingdom and the lakeside vineyards of Canada—innovation, resilience, and a deep respect for nature are shaping a distinctive new wine culture.

In this interview series, we speak with four women winemakers who are helping to build these regions from the ground up. Each brings her own story, philosophy, and approach to the vineyard and cellar, yet they share a common spirit: curiosity, adaptability, and a willingness to work with the rhythms of challenging climates.

From pioneering grape varieties to rethinking traditional techniques, these winemakers are not only crafting compelling wines—they are helping to define the future identity of cool-climate viticulture.

Emma Berto: Discovering the Potential of Swedish Terroir

Raised in a French wine region but now working in Sweden, Emma Berto represents a new generation of winemakers exploring the possibilities of northern viticulture. At a time when Sweden’s wine industry is still taking shape, she is helping to understand and express the character of the Solaris grape—one of the key varieties thriving in Scandinavia’s cool climate. Working closely with nature and practicing organic viticulture, Emma approaches winemaking with patience, technical precision, and a deep respect for the rhythm of the vineyard. Her wines reflect both the intensity of Nordic light and the freshness that cool climates naturally bring. In this conversation, she shares how moving from France to Sweden reshaped her palate, the challenges and surprises of working with Solaris, and why emerging wine regions demand both humility and independence.

By Senay Ozdemir

Emma, Can you tell us about your journey into winemaking and what drew you to Solaris grapes in Sweden?

I grew up in a wine region in France, although at first I had no direct connection to viticulture. What attracted me to winemaking was the idea of working closely with nature and transforming a raw agricultural product into something living and expressive. Once you step into this world, it becomes very difficult to step away—there is always more to learn and more to understand about the vine, the wine, and the complexity surrounding this field. Before arriving in Sweden, I had never heard of Solaris. The variety was already planted at the estate when we arrived, so we had to discover it and learn how to work with it. Today, after almost five years at the domaine, I am still impressed by its resilience. Even though it was bred to withstand cold temperatures and the intense climate of our region, it continues to adapt from year to year despite the challenges. That adaptability is something I deeply respect.

Growing up in France and now living in Sweden, how has the climate shaped your approach to the vineyard and the wines you produce?

Producing wine at such different latitudes as southern France and southern Sweden inevitably changes your perception of viticulture—and especially your perception of taste, particularly acidity. In the south of France, wines are becoming increasingly alcoholic and often lack acidity due to the vine’s physiology in hot, dry climates. When I arrived in Sweden and began producing wines with naturally higher, sharper acidity, it completely changed both my approach to winemaking and my palate. Today I have developed a deep appreciation for vibrant acidity and tension in wine. It has reshaped how I taste and evaluate wines, and I sometimes find it challenging to enjoy wines from the region where I grew up.

Solaris is a grape that thrives in northern climates. How do you work with its strengths and challenges to express the terroir?

Solaris is a hybrid grape, part of the PIWI family, bred for disease resistance and adapted to the cold Scandinavian climate. It is an extremely versatile variety—it allows us to produce sparkling wines, still white wines, orange wines, and even botrytised wines. This versatility offers significant creative freedom in the cellar. In the vineyard, however, it can be demanding. It is very vigorous and requires substantial canopy management, as its growth can be explosive. Despite its large leaves and northern location, it can easily reach 14–15% alcohol if left hanging until mid-October, which can be quite surprising. Although Solaris is classified as disease-resistant, we have learned that it still requires careful attention in plant protection to maintain yields and balance. To express the terroir, we focus on managing vigor, controlling ripeness carefully, and harvesting at the precise moment when acidity, sugar, and aromatic profile align with our vision.

What is a typical year like in your vineyard—from pruning to harvest—and how do northern light, frost, or cold affect your decisions?

It is becoming increasingly difficult to speak of a “typical” year in the vineyard due to climate change. Still, the season tends to follow a broad rhythm. Pruning usually takes place between December and late March. As temperatures begin to rise, sap flow—often referred to as “bleeding”—starts in April. Budbreak generally occurs in early May, although in the past two years it has already begun in late April. Flowering follows between mid-June and mid-July, depending largely on spring temperatures. By mid-August, veraison becomes visible, particularly in the red varieties, as the grapes begin to change colour and ripen. Harvest for Solaris usually begins around mid-September, while other varieties are picked between late September and mid-October, depending entirely on the conditions of the year. Northern light plays a crucial role throughout the growing season: the long summer days support steady ripening, while the constant risk of early autumn frost means we must remain highly attentive and ready to react.

How has being a woman influenced your approach to working in the vineyard and the cellar, if at all?

I try not to define my work through gender, but I am aware that the wine world—especially in technical and vineyard roles—has historically been male-dominated. If anything, being a woman has reinforced my need to be technically rigorous, highly attentive to detail, and confident in my decisions. I’ve noticed that I naturally focus on the finer details of each vine and every stage of production, while my partner tends to look at the bigger picture. I see this difference as a strength, creating a balance in how we approach the vineyard and the cellar.

Can you share a moment when nature surprised or challenged you in a way that shaped your winemaking philosophy?

One year, after a very promising season, we faced an unexpected cold and stormy period close to harvest. It forced us to pick earlier than planned.Instead of resisting the situation, we embraced it—and the wine turned out to have remarkable freshness and elegance. That experience reinforced something essential: patience. In winemaking, we often want things to move quickly. But one of the most beautiful lessons nature has taught me is that truly great things take time. You cannot rush the vine, and you cannot rush a wine. Respecting that rhythm has deeply shaped my philosophy.

Who or what has most influenced your development as a winemaker in such a unique, emerging region?

My French background provided strong technical foundations. However, working in Scandinavia shaped my independence. In an emerging wine region, there are fewer established answers. You must observe carefully, experiment, stay alert, and trust your instincts. Organic viticulture has also profoundly influenced me. Working without synthetic pesticides forces you to understand and support the ecosystem rather than control it. You must give in order to receive, and that mindset has transformed how I see both the vineyard and my role within it.

If you could describe your wines in one sentence that captures both the landscape and your personal touch, what would it be?

Our wines are born from a landscape of striking beauty and singular climate—shaped by long summer daylight and sea winds, and crafted with conviction and character by people who deeply believe in this terroir.

What advice would you give to women exploring winemaking in northern or cool-climate regions—or entering the wine industry in general?

The best way to understand emerging or cool-climate regions is to speak with the people who actually grow and make wine there. Learn from their challenges and mistakes—that experience is invaluable. Avoid simply copying established models. Without fully understanding the local climate and growing conditions, those approaches may not work. And after that, trust your technical knowledge and your intuition.

Looking ahead, how do you see Sweden’s wine scene evolving, and what role do you hope to play in it?

I see enormous potential for Swedish viticulture over the next twenty years. There is still much to build: strengthening professional structures, raising quality standards, developing expertise, and allowing more flexibility in regulations—particularly regarding direct sales—will be key steps forward. The momentum is there, but it takes time. Everyone involved in this dynamic contributes in their own way to moving things ahead. As part of the pioneering generation, I feel committed to sharing our experiences, exchanging knowledge, and supporting others who wish to begin this journey. Climate change will challenge every wine region in the world—including Sweden. Our responsibility is to anticipate, adapt, and continue learning.